We arrived at the Northern Arts Hotel in Barker Street and simply opening the door to the main room was a delight. A grand piano on the right, a small cinema on the left and knick-knacks everywhere, Margie Fooke chatting with a new staff member and I felt I was at home. Well, I was. Margie used to run the Brooklyn Arts Hotel in Fitzroy. We carried the bags upstairs (no lift, so reduce your baggage) cleaned up, changed into lighter clothing and went for a walk through Castlemaine. (Pronunciation guide: Castlemaine is pronounced like Newcastle, with a short initial “a” Cassel not Carssel, but locals call it The Main, like Ballarat is called The Rat.) Despite the hype about Central Victoria country towns being over-run by tourists, Castlemaine is delightful. Nothing ever was what it used to be - a line I wrote about Carlton in 1989. (That said, the crush of tourists in Daylesford the next day – Sunday – was overwhelming. But they go away during the week.) We had lunch with friends and explored the centre of 'The Main' and sauntered back to the hotel for a rest. While my partner snoozed I went onto the veranda overlooking the street and re-tuned my 12-string guitar and practiced some scales and songs. Idyllic ! We had dinner at the Phamily Kitchen Vietnamese Restaurant (see separate review) and returning to the Northern Artists Hotel, I realised that their film night was presented by John Flaus of 3RRR-FM fame; and Margie knew friends of mine in Melbourne. We had a glass of wine with Margie and Frank and more guests returned and we spent an hour or so nattering about arts and politics. I felt at home. Beware the front rooms. They overlook the Midland Highway and it wasn’t engine noise that woke me but the woosh of tyres passing by. That said, our room was great with bedside tables, a modern bathroom and in the hallway an urn and birko with tea and instant coffee. Downstairs were more facilities for a light continental breakfast. Just $165 for the night. Highly recommended.
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