Kinosaki Onsen: Seven Baths, One Slightly Nervous Blogger

Some people chase mountain peaks or city lights. I, however, recently chased steam—all the way to Kinosaki Onsen, a serene hot spring town in Hyogo Prefecture, where soaking isn’t just a pastime—it’s practically a spiritual experience. Now, I’ll be honest: as a travel blogger in my 40s, I thought I’d seen (and soaked in) it all. But standing naked—yes, completely naked—in the changing room of my first public bathhouse? That moment had me questioning every life choice up to that point. But here’s the thing—once you get past the initial “I’m really doing this” moment, the experience becomes something else entirely. Peaceful. Cleansing. A little addictive, really. Armed with my Yumepa pass and wrapped in a yukata (outside the baths, of course), I hopped between all seven onsen like a local. Satono-yu welcomed me with rooftop views and mountain air. Ichino-yu, styled like a kabuki theatre, felt like stepping into a secret cavern. And Goshono-yu—with its beautiful wooden interior and outdoor bath—was pure magic under the stars. Between soaks, I refueled on vegetarian delights and coffee with a view at Miharashi Terrace Cafe, then chased it with a cheeky beer flight at Gubigabu—because, well, self-care takes many forms. The ropeway up to Onsenji Temple gave me a moment to reflect (and dry out), and the town’s lantern-lit streets, lined with willows and echoes of clacking geta sandals, made me feel like I’d stepped into a different century. So yes, if you’re new to the onsen world, that first soak might come with a bit of suspense and a dash of vulnerability. But trust me—once you’re in, you’re in.