The Premier Mansion of Western Beijing: A Stroll Through the Ancient City of Xuanhua

How does a thousand-year-old military stronghold still radiate vitality today? Starting from Beijing, it takes only one hour by high-speed train to reach this ancient city, known as the "Premier Mansion of Western Beijing" — Xuanhua. As one of the nine key border towns in history, Xuanhua was once the political and military center of western Beijing and still preserves a wealth of historical and cultural heritage. I chose to begin my Xuanhua journey on a bright spring morning. Spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit Xuanhua, avoiding the summer heat and winter cold, making it perfect for outdoor exploration and photography. The Core of the Ancient City: The Three Tower Trio The heart of Xuanhua Ancient City is the trio of ancient buildings known as the "Three Towers" — Qingyuan Tower, Zhenshuo Tower, and Gongji Tower. These three city towers stand along the central axis of the ancient city, witnessing Xuanhua’s long history. Qingyuan Tower, also called the Bell Tower, was built in the 18th year of the Ming Chenghua reign (1482). It is a double-eaved Xieshan-style building with a tiled roof, standing 25 meters tall. Four wooden plaques hang under the eaves: the south side reads "Qingyuan Tower," while the east, north, and west sides respectively bear the inscriptions "Soaring Guard of the Strict Frontier," "Sound Reaches Heavenly Music," and "Calming the Border Atmosphere." Due to its exquisite architecture, it is known as the "Second Yellow Crane Tower." Zhenshuo Tower, also known as the Drum Tower, was built in the 5th year of the Ming Zhengtong reign (1440), over 560 years ago. Its name comes from the "General Zhenshuo Seal" worn by the military commander guarding Xuanfu Town during the 7th year of the Ming Yongle reign. Hanging on the tower is a large plaque inscribed by Emperor Qianlong himself, reading "Divine Capital’s Shield," symbolizing Xuanhua as an important barrier northwest of Beijing. Gongji Tower, also called Zhugeng Tower and commonly known as the South Gate Tower, was built during the Ming Yongle period and rebuilt in the Qing Yongzheng period. As the southern gate of Xuanhua, its architectural style reflects typical Ming official large wooden structure techniques, showcasing ancient architectural aesthetics and craftsmanship. Climbing these three towers (each ticket costs 10 yuan, or a 38 yuan pass for all three) offers a panoramic view of the blend of ancient and modern scenes inside and outside Xuanhua Ancient City, allowing visitors to feel the convergence of history and modernity. Cultural Relics: A Journey Through a Millennium Xuanhua Ancient City not only has the three major towers but also many cultural relics. The Xuanhua Museum is a great place to learn about the city’s history. Though small, the museum houses over 1,300 unearthed artifacts, including national first- and second-class relics. The museum’s treasure is a bronze handled pot from the Han and Warring States periods, containing a green liquid identified as Warring States-era wine. The museum building was originally the site of the Chahar Provincial Democratic Government and is a courtyard blending Chinese and Western architectural styles, itself a protected cultural relic. Shien Temple is a Ming Dynasty ancient temple famous for its exquisite murals. Although it may sometimes be closed, if you have the chance to visit, you can admire well-preserved ancient architecture and closely view the beautiful Ming Dynasty murals, experiencing the charm of ancient art. The Liao Dynasty Mural Tombs are an important part of northern China’s mural tomb groups. These murals showcase Liao Dynasty painting art and provide valuable materials for studying Liao history, culture, and religion. However, note that this site is currently not open to the public, so tourists do not need to make a special trip. Strolling the Ancient City: Experience Local Life Xuanhua Ancient City’s attractions are relatively concentrated and mostly reachable on foot, making it an ideal place for a city walk. The ancient city’s narrow streets are not suitable for driving, so walking is the best way to explore. Between Gongji Gate and Zhenshuo Tower is a pedestrian commercial street, the busiest part of the ancient city. Changping Ancient Street retains many old shops and traditional handicraft stores, where you can taste authentic snacks, buy souvenirs, and experience the daily rhythm of Xuanhua life. Xuanhua Ancient City also features a unique mode of transport — a small train. Running along the central axis between several city towers in the main urban area, the train costs 1 yuan per ride, stops on request, and is a convenient way to get around the ancient city. People’s Park is the most popular and down-to-earth spot in Xuanhua Ancient City, a great place for locals to relax and have fun. It lights up at night and is a local gathering spot. Here, visitors can experience authentic local life. Culinary Experience: Taste the Flavors of Xuanhua Xuanhua not only boasts rich historical and cultural heritage but also many distinctive foods. Chaoyanglou Restaurant is a century-old establishment next to the Nine-Dragon Wall, said to have been frequented by rebel leader Li Zicheng and Empress Dowager Cixi. Their lamb skewers are delicious with tender meat, and there is a takeout window—highly recommended for passing travelers. Xuanhua’s specialty snacks include: - Youmian Wowo: Made mainly from oat flour, steamed and dipped in soup, with a smooth texture and delicious taste. - Yam Fish: Made from potatoes and oat flour, steamed in a basket and dipped in soup. The soup’s seasoning varies widely, with lamb soup being the best meat option and mushroom soup considered top-notch among vegetable soups. - Fentuo: Made from pea flour, the resulting yellow dough is cut into thin strips with a fine knife, then poured with vinegar-salted water and topped with a spoonful of local specialty chili oil. It has a smooth texture and a sour, spicy, and tasty flavor. Xuanhua is also a producing area for milk grapes, which have large, oval-shaped berries with yellow-green skin, crisp and juicy flesh, and a sweet and sour taste. Additionally, Xuanhua’s Gagan jujubes are a local specialty, small and round with a sweet and crisp flavor. Practical Information Transportation: Xuanhua is located in Zhangjiakou City, Hebei Province, about 160-200 kilometers from Beijing. It is easily accessible by self-driving, high-speed train (to Zhangjiakou Station, then transfer by bus or taxi), or long-distance bus. Walking is recommended for exploring inside the ancient city. Accommodation: You can choose to stay in inns or homestays around the ancient city, such as near Changping Ancient Street, which is convenient for evening strolls and experiencing local life. Xuanhua Hotel is conveniently located within walking distance of major attractions, with budget single rooms starting at about 160 yuan. Best Travel Time: Spring and autumn, from April to June and September to November each year. These periods offer pleasant weather, avoiding summer heat and winter cold, ideal for outdoor exploration and photography. Notes: Museums and ticket windows for tower entry usually have lunch breaks, so plan your visits accordingly. Some attractions may be closed to the public or require reservations, such as the Liao Dynasty mural tomb group. Conclusion Xuanhua Ancient City is a city often overlooked by tourists but rich in historical depth. Even during holidays like May Day, it sees few visitors, making it an excellent choice for a holiday trip near Beijing without the crowds. Here, you can stroll along thousand-year-old city walls, overlook the blend of ancient and modern scenes inside and outside the city at dawn or dusk; explore ancient temples and admire exquisite Ming Dynasty murals up close; experience local life in historic neighborhoods and taste authentic snacks. With its profound historical and cultural heritage and relatively well-preserved ancient sites, Xuanhua Ancient City offers visitors another way to experience the charm of northern ancient cities. It is a journey through time, a dialogue with history and culture, worthy of every history lover’s exploration. Xuanhua Ancient City