Taipei｜A Century-Old Ryotei Carrying Three Generations of the Hiramatsu Family's Story in Taiwan

In 1897, Tokumatsu Hiramatsu, along with his father-in-law and wife, opened Kishu An near Changsha Street. Named after his hometown of Kishu, the restaurant served Kanto-style cuisine. During that era, as more Japanese people moved to Taiwan, Kishu An became a place to soothe homesickness. It wasn't just about dining; geisha performances were also introduced for a time. Twenty years after its opening, Tokumatsu Hiramatsu decided to open a branch. The location was chosen by the Xindian River, featuring a two-story wooden building. This area saw a rise in Japanese-style ryotei, reminiscent of Kyoto's summer terraces, allowing guests to dine comfortably even in the sweltering heat. Kishu An also had a unique boat-shaped house where patrons could drink on the boat and return to the restaurant for more entertainment. Hiramatsu had four sons, who managed two restaurants in Taiwan until Japan's defeat in World War II, marking the end of Hiramatsu's fifty-year journey in Taiwan. Later, Kishu An was converted into a dormitory complex. In 1996, a fire destroyed the main building and damaged the annex, while the detached house suffered from years of rain-induced decay. It wasn't until 2011 that the site was transformed into a literary venue, with the detached house restored in 2014. Old photos donated by the Hiramatsu family reveal the elegance of Kishu An in its prime. The restored detached house, with its wooden doors, offers a refreshing view of the garden. The lit corridors evoke scenes of Kishu An's bustling days, with patrons and staff moving about. Recently, the venue hosted a memorial event for Qiong Yao, showcasing her works, scripts, and iconic film stills. Next door, the Kishu An Literary Forest has become a literary hub, with the restaurant offering seasonal dishes inspired by writers. One of the most unique features is the path from Guting Station to Kishu An, where the pavement is adorned with short literary excerpts, creating a poetic journey into the world of literature. 📍Address: No. 1, Lane 4, Alley 109, Tong'an Street, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, 100 🚗 MRT Guting Station, Exit 2, a 10-minute walk away.