Seoul｜The Rise and Fall of Heungseon Daewongun: The Turbulent History of Unhyeongung Palace

Heungseon Daewongun was the first person in Joseon history to be honored with the title of Daewongun while still alive. The poem beside the Eorodang Hall, 'Enjoy boundless fortune while in office, achieve immortal merits through regency,' perhaps best captures his sentiments. The story begins with the death of King Cheoljong. With no heir, Heungseon Daewongun persuaded Queen Sinjeong to adopt his second son, Yi Jae-hwang, and establish him as the new King Gojong, marking the start of his power. He ruled from Unhyeongung Palace, wielding immense power, even overshadowing his son, King Gojong. He implemented the Hobo system, requiring both commoners and nobles to pay taxes; simplified clothing through the Byeonbok decree, strengthened royal authority, and suppressed foreigners and foreign religions. During the Byeongin Persecution, he massacred tens of thousands of Catholics and even erected the 'Anti-Compromise Monument' condemning those who advocated for peace and labeling them as traitors, a phrase recorded in history. However, his high-handed rule eventually led to his impeachment and downfall. Unhyeongung Palace, originally his residence, later expanded to include the Eorodang Hall, Noandang Hall, and Norakdang Hall. He lived there, painting orchids, until his death. The pine and maple trees in front of Norakdang Hall are particularly enchanting. Unhyeongung Palace is free to visit, and viewing it with its historical context offers a unique experience. It is also where King Gojong and Empress Myeongseong were married, and every spring and autumn, there are ceremonial performances. 📍Address: 464 Samil-daero, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea