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[Kanazawa Castle Town (② Townspeople and Entertainment Culture)] (Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture, Former Province Name: Kaga)

In Kanazawa, home to the "Kaga million koku" domain, the castle town developed under the stable rule of the Maeda clan, and by the end of the Edo period, it had the fifth largest population in Japan after the three major cities (Edo, Kyoto, and Osaka) and Nagoya, and grew into one of Japan's leading cities. Influenced by the government of civil rule under the fourth feudal lord, Maeda Tsunanori (1643-1724), distinctive culture and art were born in the castle town from an early stage. "Ochaya" (tea houses) where geisha and customers could play were scattered around the castle town, and Noh and music livened up the castle town at night. However, in the late Edo period, the domain became concerned about this situation from the perspective of public morals, and concentrated the tea houses in one corner of the castle town. In 1820, tea houses were gathered on the east bank of the Asano River, which flows northeast of the castle, and on the west bank of the Sai River, which flows southwest, to form kuruwa (red light districts). Today, these geisha districts are commonly known as "East Chayagai" and "West Chayagai." Only wealthy merchants and townspeople frequented the tea houses, and samurai were forbidden from entering them by the feudal domain. This "other world," which could be said to be a departure from the castle towns that tended to be centered around feudal domains and samurai, was established thanks to the existence of wealthy merchants who supported the circulation of the economy. Merchants who developed businesses based on the vast territory and high cultural standard of the Kaga domain, such as contracting for the development of new rice fields, trade with Kitamae ships, brewing sake and seasonings, and even producing porcelain and lacquerware, used the tea houses as a place for entertainment and business negotiations. They led the way to a rich entertainment culture. Currently, you can experience the unique streetscape and culture of chaya districts in Higashi Chaya District, Nishi Chaya District, and Kazuemachi Chaya District (a chaya district established after the Meiji Restoration) on the opposite bank of the Asano River from Higashi Chaya District. In particular, Shima (photos 3-10) located in Higashi Chaya District is a teahouse that retains its appearance from the time Higashi Chaya District was founded. From the crowded, deeply shaded entrance, a steep staircase leads to the guest room. The interior, with its lustrous red interior walls, combines elegance and elegance. On the other hand, by eliminating the closet and trimming the alcove pillars thinly, the overall design is open, and you can really feel that this is the main hall for dance and musical performances. Since it was the height of summer when I visited, the sliding doors and shoji screens had been replaced with blinds, and a cool breeze was blowing in from the direction of the Asano River. The entertainment culture that developed in the teahouse district was not limited to dance and singing, but also included a wide range of haikai and tea ceremony, honing the intelligence and sophistication of both geisha and customers. Not only that, but customers were also expected to appreciate the subtle considerations shown in the layout of the room and the geisha's behavior, so teahouses were filled with the sensibility symbolized by the word "iki." One of the cultures that was born in such spaces is "kagebue." In this, the geisha plays the flute without showing herself to the customers, making it sound like the natural sounds of wind and insects. Older geisha who rarely appear in front of customers use their experience and high skills to entertain customers. The annex in Shima where the kagebue is being shown is a bluish room with a deep shadow and a calm atmosphere compared to the guest room mentioned above. This impression is exactly related to the culture of the shadow flute, and one can imagine that the guests who chose to choose this room were "connoisseurs" who knew all about the arts and could perform them with a certain charm. The music that flowed quietly between them and the geisha, who did not show her face, seemed to be more than just entertainment; it was a delicate emotional encounter, and I could not help but imagine all sorts of things about the scene and the hearts of the people. *At the back of the first floor of Shima is the teahouse "Kansonan" (photos 8-10), where you can enjoy matcha green tea and Kanazawa sweets while looking out at the garden. In addition, at the "Ochaya Museum" (photo 1), located behind Shima, you can see valuable exhibits related to the teahouse district and entertainment culture. Access: About 10 minutes by bus from Kanazawa Station (to Higashi Chaya District) Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★ (There are quite a few people, but it's a large area so it doesn't bother you) Visit date: Around 11am on a weekday in the third week of June #Kanazawa #KanazawaCity #IshikawaTrip #IshikawaTourism #ishikawakanko #Hokuriku #HokurikuTrip #HokurikuTourism #KanazawaTrip #KanazawaTourism #KanazawaTime #KanazawaCastle #HigashiChayaDistrict #TeaHouse #TeaHouseDistrict #Shima #TeaHouseMuseum #Sansonan #PreservedTraditionalBuildings #OldStreetScenery #TeaRoom #TeaCeremony #JapaneseSweets #JapaneseSweetsofKanazawa #TraditionalArchitecture #JapaneseStyleArchitecture #WoodenArchitecture #HistoryLover #SoloTravel #LifeWithTravel
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Posted: Aug 12, 2023
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Higashi Chaya District (Eastern Teahouse District)

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