In September of 2023, my wife and I spent a magical week at Castello di Ugento. We had been looking for a place to stay in Puglia and I happened upon the Castello in an internet search. It was all that we had hoped for. The quality of the accommodations and the food were matched only by the attentiveness of the staff. Our stay was not inexpensive, but it was worth every penny. We have paid more at other five-star hotels but never have we had such an all-round amazing vacation experience. Apart from one day, when we visited a local winery and olive oil company (both arranged by the hotel), we barely budged. Uncharacteristically, we ate every meal at the hotel restaurant and each night the elegant and creative menu was exceptional. The sommelier served us exclusively local Puglian wine, which he selected to match each course. One of the features that had drawn us to the Castello was the Puglia Culinary Centre, housed in the hotel. In the off-season, classes are held for students from cooking schools, both in Italy and in the United States. We took three cooking lessons, each taught by the chefs of the Castello, which were outstanding: three hours of cooking in their state-of-the-art teaching kitchen, followed by a full meal with the chefs. Both of us love to cook and we have taken lessons elsewhere, including at the Cordon Bleu in Paris, but this topped them all. The Castello has only ten rooms. We had reserved the Alcova di Diana ahead of time, the best room in the house. The Alcova is a 60 meter2 (600 ft2) two-room suite on the second floor of the hotel with its own large terrace, the only room on that floor. It has a view of the town and the countryside that stretches as far as the Mediterranean Sea. The Castello has a large walled-in garden, filled with fruit trees and herbs, which the chefs use in cooking. We spent hours reading there in the afternoon, completely undisturbed. The town of Ugento is at the very tip of the heel of the boot of the Italian mainland. The nearest airport is in Brindisi, about 90 minutes away. We flew into Bari, an hour further north, because we were able to get a direct connection in Rome to our flight from JFK, which meant that our luggage went straight through. We then rented a car. The roads to and from both airports are mostly limited access divided highways with no tolls. Ugento is a quaint local town, not touristy at all. It is only a few minutes from beaches on the Ionian Sea and not far from a good number of wineries. The hotel offers a variety of discounts if you pay in advance. The details are spelled out on the excellent website (castellodiugento.com), which also has photos of all the rooms and information about the cooking classes. The weather at the end of September was perfect and the crowds of tourists were greatly diminished from the height of the season in August. As I put it at the outset: magical.
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